Just read the above, a lovely insight into Eurasian rail travel in the early 1970's. Paul Theroux is father of author and television presenter, Louis Theroux, and more on topic for this forum, a pipe smoker.
I found it a great relaxing read, with such gems as:
"Mr Bernard brought me to the room, and then got a shovelful of hot coals and started a fire in my fireplace, talking the whole time about Candacraig.........The rain hit the windows and I could hear it sweeping across the roof. But the fire was burning bright, and I was in an easy chair, toasting my feet, puffing my pipe, opening my copy of Browning."