Help me design 2 Nordic knives...

Brothers of Briar

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So here are some progress photos...I'll add comments as I'm able. In the middle of getting dinner ready right now.


The first comment is that measuring everything is critical. ONCE I went ahead and just made a knife...and it didn't even come close to fitting in the sheath. That's when I learned how to make a good scabbard from wood, etc. This is a shot of how deeply the blade fits into the sheath. All things start with that. I made a file mark on the tang to show where the top of the sheath came. The sheath will get a two-tone coat of Feibing's dye...dark brown and mahogany. So this is the start of what I'll call "Kinfe A".


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The dimension other than depth that's critical is girth (and shape). Since I want the tang to go to a specific depth into the antler (that will form the end of the handle) that will require that the antler fit down into the sheath to a depth that will allow that. I know...it seems really obvious...but knowing that I needed to check and carve the anter to size as one of the first steps took me a while. The butt is the first thing I need to know the dimenstion of, as that dictates how much is left on the forend part to cut wood and spacers fo BTW: in this series of photos the pieces are set up on a sheet of black paper micarta. This is the stuff that the spacers will be cut from...first rectangles, then drilled for the center hole, then rounded to match the handle contours...taking care to allow overage as the final shape will be performed with a belt sander.


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Close-up of the antler section for the handle. A nice trick I thought of while scanning through some of the 100 or so photos of knives like this I saved into a file for ideas...since the front of the antler piece has to fit the sheath exactly, and thus has to be filed to shape...I thought that doing a pattern or design instead of tapering the size up into the end would be a nice touch. Perhaps I'll enhance the design, which at this point is just a circle around the antler with a half-round shape on the side and a kind of wave on the other, with some added scrim work.


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This photo shows additional work on the antler, which is rather hard to see, but accounts for maybe a quarter inch in diameter. It also approximates where the antler will fit in relation to the blade and tang...and...shows the tools needed to get there. The red handled files are Japanese, Iwasaki 'carving files' the teeth of which are chemically etched for sharpness. If used with a light hand they cut an amazing amount of stock with each and stroke and they leave the surface smooth...very smooth. The large rifflers are files, not rasps and do well with work of this size. Um...they come as a double-sided piece, but I usually cut them in two and mount each side in a handle. I sent the other sides of these two to a friend. Seems like a good use for 'em.


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Rough...very rough at this point. Here's the assembled pieces that I turned out today. The heavy brass butt cap (with a tab on the bottom that might or might not stay...for a ring or lanyard), the antler section of the handle...the chunk of brass that you can see the oval on is obviously for the front of the antler...all were done this morning in a couple of hours. The blade (safely wrapped in heavy tape) is set very approximately at the depth it will be at when done. There there are some examples of the black paper micarta and red fiber spacers. I have some 1 mm and 2 mm brass sheet stock on the way, one size of which will likely find it's way into the design as spacers. Then on the far right there's the guard (or at least a preliminary version) as it may be OK...but may not. You can see the shape of the blade marked on it...Rhombus...interesting. I saw on another forum where a guy was whining about how hard it was to get the shape right...we'll see!

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So now we go into a bit into 'Knife B'. In the background is a large block of Honduran Rosewood, a bit of which might make it into the handle. Then there's the unpolished piece of nickel silver cut from barstock and drilled, filed and detailed to fit the width of the tang and the curved that goes from the front to the back of the guard. Of course you can see the large taped up blade...then the star of the show. One of the new guys from Oregon mentioned that I should think about having part of one handle be an antler crown...and I put a lot of thought to that. So...know that the antler shown in 'Knife A' is one half of the crown piece that I had...and the crown here is the other half. In a fit of "Wildass Knife Abandon" I had a major 'WTF' moment and sawed the thing in two. Of course I wouldn't have done it if I didn't think BOTH pieces had the potential to be pretty amazing additions to the projects. And let me say...the crown is one heck of a piece of sculpture. (skip to next photo now)

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More comments will be added on Friday...but you get the idea.

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And these were added just for fun. Last week's projects. I like the contrast in materials.

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Love how those tampers look like little swords and ancient weapons.
 
Be careful with using copper. You'll want some sort of dielectric material (micarta, vulcanite, plastic, etc.) between the copper and the steel so they don't form a battery - oxidizing your steel!
 
re: tampers...I've done quite a few 'sword tampers' and the edge, where appropriate, is sharp...good for scraping cake from a bowl.

re: the 'battery knife'...I was hoping to set up a little LED and have it like a nite lite! lol Seriously...thanks for the tip. I'll be carefull to put any copper out of reach of any steel. If used as a spacer material it would be sandwiched with micarta or the fiber spacer material. If a copper spacer went onto an area in which the tang went through, I could also widen the hope in the copper and 'line' it with something like a rubber "O" ring or a collar or something...now that I know.

A question though...what electrons would flow in a situation like that? Wouldn't some have to flow in a battery situation...or would that describe a circuit instead? If the copper/iron duo just make the iron/steel attract free O2 or whatever from the atmosphere to form the oxide...how would that happen? Inquiring minds, etc.

And...could I somehow 'amp' the thing up to the point where it would impart a shock. Well, maybe that would take a knife the size of Manhattan! lol
 
I think it would be cool to make a sheath for the the tamper that could be put length wise on a belt.
 
Yeah, copper prices are ridiculous nowadays.

Basically, if you put two dissimilar metals of different electric potentials in contact with each other in a wet (or moist) environment, it sets up a cathode (copper) anode (steel) relationship with the water/electrolyte closing the circuit, causing electrons to flow from the steel (oxidation) to the copper, causing galvanic corrosion of the steel. Chances are you won't be submerging your knife, so it shouldn't be too bad, but enough moisture and the corrosion could still happen. If you look at properly installed plumbing systems, you will never see steel connected directly to copper. there will be a brass or dielectric fitting between the two. Unscrupulous gasoline tank (like at a gas station) installers used to toss pocketfuls of pennies on top of the steel tanks when they were being installed "for good luck" knowing that they would eventually get hired again to replace the tanks that had rotted out.
 
Interesting. I didn't know I could put brass between them. And yes, copper prices are insane. I priced some sheetstock a couple of days ago and was astonished at how much it was. I went ahead and got nickel silver and brass in 1 mm and 2 mm instead.

I do admit to being a total scrounger though. In addition to the local Goodwill stores (where I've found some good copper and brass pices on occasion) I used to make a Sunday trip to a little industrial park about a mile from where I live to 'walk my dog'...and where Benchmade has their factory. You cannot imagine what I've pulled out of their dumpster...among which are a dozen good full tang knife blanks, lots of good steel blades (intended for folders), carbon fiber sheets that scales had been stamped from (with large areas still there) and the same with impregnated wood laminates. A damn gold mine esp. the full tanks and the carbon fiber. I can go into their catalogs and find the knife they were intended for and get the steel i.d. that way or sometimes it's stampled right on there. The first blade I got over there I dipped in Platisol of whatever it's called, and made a good garden knife that's likely not tempered, but is fine for whacking plants and digging - and it's super easy to replace the edge with a file or sandpaper or my belt sander.


Anyway - took my daughter to the beach yesterday and had my Maxpedition Fat Boy filled with project stuff to fiddle with after I'd completed the obligatory beach combing. The finds? Two lousy rocks and two pieces of driftwood. But I was able to get the crown antler piece to a state of near completion while my daughter did some clandestine "Game of Thrones" reading. Then we hit the local major destination dairy place (Tillamook - makers of fine cheese and ice cream, etc.) and snagged cheese samples and a huge waffle cone each. All in all a nice day.

Knife project on hold today to start and finish 1) a 5" strope made from Rosewood and a chunk of insanely thick leather cut from a $2 weight lifters belt from, you guess it...the Goodwill. And get almost the 2nd half of a staff made to resemble the one brandished by The Riddler...for my boy and his CosPlay fettish...or whatever he calls it. I can hardly wait to see him in his little green derby, tights and question mark jacket. Digital camera...earn your keep!!! lol
 
With the shorter knife are you going to put some kind of metal cap our just sand the antler smooth?
 
Two photos below. One shows the orientation of the antler section to the blade...about where it will be. Then of course the wood and spacers will fit between where the tang ends and the start of the antler. The other photo shows the very heavy brass endcap, the antler section, another brass spacer that will go on the front of the antler, the brass 'guard' (which I'll likely have to redo) and some of the potential spacer materials.

I JUST found (finally) the chunk of Gabon Ebony I had intended to use, after (of course) I found a nice piece of African Blackwood (cousin to Ebony). But I'll certainly use all of it...and more...much more...eventually.

Don't know if the black micarta and red fiber spacers will be used, maybe opting for ivory micarta and some combination of light and dark green fiber spacers instead. We'll see.

But the short answer to your question is...yes...a buttcap will be used.

(With the other piece of antler, the one going on the Leuku (long) blade...I filed down the inside of the very end area to semi-smooth and am thinking of what to do there. Getting it flat enough to accept a piece of any sheetstock would be a challenge indeed...but I do have some ideas about insetting some kind of medallion into it. Not sure what yet.



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Well...you have to.



:lol:




Actually, true to standard protocol, I may belay the plan to put that large antler section at the end of the small knife. After finding my long lost Gabon Ebony and procuring the African Blackwood I may instead use one of the other together with black micarta and spacers that are even now wending their way toward me. Much as I like the antler piece after getting things laid out it seems far too large for the intended target. When looking at the remaining Ebony it seemed very close to the needed size to accomodate the wood sections of BOTH knives, which would still provide the "set" thing I was hoping for.

Below is an example of a Leuku and Puukko offered as a combination of two knives...at the excellent "Ragweed Forge site (link below photo).


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http://www.ragweedforge.com/index.html
 
I was thinking that the antler on the smaller one was disproportionate.
 
Well...Northern Finnish Sami style knives (the ones that usually have the sharply curving antler sheath) also often have a sort of knob on the end. I guess this is so the thing won't go flying when wet or snowy or whatever. Plus they are usually more of a Leuku style, for bushwhacking and camp use, etc. But some still have large handles, but with a smaller style blade.

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Also, I've seen handles very much like that one would have turned out. And even though the photo below is maybe a bit smaller, it wouldn't have been THAT different.

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What I'd REALLY like to find is what they call "Aged Copper Burl" - but I have no idea where to find it, even though I've looked. I think it's stabilized and colored Box Elder Burl...but I could be wrong.

If you scroll down the page at the link...which has more handle materials that I'd call exotic than anywhere else I've ever seen. Some darn nice Sambar there, and lots of really nice stabilized wood. Fun to see what Mike Stewart does with all this stuff. He's made a couple for me on special order. One is a nice Bark River hunting knife that has Impala scales...looks good. He did another that I call a set...a Bark River North Wind and Tanto that have what they call "Twisted Wire Micarta" or I've also seen it referred to as Barbed Wire Micarta...I think they're the same. There are some pretty cool and fairly expensive micartas out there.

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/777077/

 
Help me, I've fallen...and I can't stop carving!!! Whatever.


So I started the other handle idea for the small knife a couple days ago...have been working on it during 'free time' (my daughter just had 4 wisdom teeth 'extracted' - it's kind of elbowed the project aside a bit). BTAIM (be that is it may) I started out by carving a fairly standard handle...one index finger groove...left a bog hook on the end of the butt. Then I got to looking at it (always dangerous) and thought I saw a seal in there (Inuit style) so I released that and it looks pretty good in a minimalist way. Then inside of THAT I started seeing an old friend...the Maltese Falcon. I think he winked at me. I need one of two things...more sleep of more coffee!

I had lost the previous photo search file I had on the Black Bird (or perhaps better known as 'the dingus') so I re-did the search and came up with some new stuff that really does a good job on showing the bird in rotation. Check this one out.

http://props.steinschneider.com/maltese_falcon/malt_falcon.htm

If I end up doing the Falcon as the head that's on the butt (heh, heh) I would likely carry the incised 'feather' design into the handle about ahlfway to the forend. I made a tamper one time that was an "exact" duplicate of the Maltese Falcon...out of Oak (groan)...painted Jet Black, with a copper tamp head. I sold the piece via Mars for over $100. So it must have been pretty well received by someone out there. I'm thinking that the Inuit style seal would get an, 'oh, that's nice...a seal' reaction...while the Falcon would be a MUCH more enthusiastic reaction. It's a 'Movie stuff vx. Eskimo stuff" kinda thing I guess.

I'll take some photos today before I do any revisions...IF I do any revisions. Then I need to start making the spacer assembly...still thinking black micarta and red fiber spacers...but the ivory does have it's own draw and appeal...
 
Boy that's gonna be cool. Can't wait to see. So the beak is going to be hook on the butt cap right?
 
Well, not any longer. The idea of the Maltese Falcon has been set aside for a future project. After getting into a bit the revision wouldn't have worked. For things to look like it was intensional I should have started with that idea. At this point the head (with the nose, instead of a beak) forming the 'hook' you referred to, looks more like a seal or maybe even a polar bear. Eyes and nostrils have been drilled, brow shaped, snout with nose, lip flaps (like a dog's anatomy) carved...and it has an initial buff on it using black emory. Also, the micarta spacers (ivory) and the guard have been rough cut. Next I'll drill the handle and spacers and start the final spaing of the front section. Ivory Micarta is a bit touchy, if you want it to stay as white as it can be. All the metal will be Nickel Silver. Should look OK. Photos ASAP.
 
Can't to slowly acquire the tools I need to start taking on projects like this one.
 
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