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Need Pipemaker help/advice: Staining Natural Pipes
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<blockquote data-quote="RDPipes" data-source="post: 385356" data-attributes="member: 2155"><p>I would NOT use 220 or 320 to sand that stummel, most the time it only takes a bit of 400 to get most the wax finish off. If your going to go to a darker stain I see no need in taking all the stain off just scuff it up evenly and restain. If your worried about the stamping go lightly with a 3m pad over it. If the stummel hasn't any lacquer or shellac on it that should be enough but, if it does I would use lacquer thinner on a rag to remove it after you've scuffed it up a bit, it evaporates quickly and will not harm the pipe in ANY way.</p><p>A Dremel is Way too fast and will burn anything on the pipe easily. A 1700 rpm motor or drill motor will work with the proper rouges and wheels.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RDPipes, post: 385356, member: 2155"] I would NOT use 220 or 320 to sand that stummel, most the time it only takes a bit of 400 to get most the wax finish off. If your going to go to a darker stain I see no need in taking all the stain off just scuff it up evenly and restain. If your worried about the stamping go lightly with a 3m pad over it. If the stummel hasn't any lacquer or shellac on it that should be enough but, if it does I would use lacquer thinner on a rag to remove it after you've scuffed it up a bit, it evaporates quickly and will not harm the pipe in ANY way. A Dremel is Way too fast and will burn anything on the pipe easily. A 1700 rpm motor or drill motor will work with the proper rouges and wheels. [/QUOTE]
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Need Pipemaker help/advice: Staining Natural Pipes
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