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Need Pipemaker help/advice: Staining Natural Pipes
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<blockquote data-quote="Thomas Tkach" data-source="post: 385367" data-attributes="member: 1422"><p>+1 on alcohol killing the oils. </p><p></p><p>+1 on different strokes (see all the debates by established makers on PMF). All those little things like gloves probably make a difference once you get into artisan-level work, but aren't worth messing about on your first go. </p><p></p><p>I disagree with the dremel comment, though. I have used one to buff many pipes, and it wasn't that bad. It was slow going with such a small wheel, but that's what makes the difference. Though a dremel revolves faster, you're not mounting a 6" buff on it, but a 2" one (or smaller), which means the surface of the wheel is actually going 1/3 the speed as the 6" would. A 6" wheel at 750 rpm would run the same surface speed as a 2" buff at 2250 rpm.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Thomas Tkach, post: 385367, member: 1422"] +1 on alcohol killing the oils. +1 on different strokes (see all the debates by established makers on PMF). All those little things like gloves probably make a difference once you get into artisan-level work, but aren't worth messing about on your first go. I disagree with the dremel comment, though. I have used one to buff many pipes, and it wasn't that bad. It was slow going with such a small wheel, but that's what makes the difference. Though a dremel revolves faster, you're not mounting a 6" buff on it, but a 2" one (or smaller), which means the surface of the wheel is actually going 1/3 the speed as the 6" would. A 6" wheel at 750 rpm would run the same surface speed as a 2" buff at 2250 rpm. [/QUOTE]
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Need Pipemaker help/advice: Staining Natural Pipes
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