Polishing and Buffing

[DrSmoke]

So...brothers in arms (of pipes)... Do any of you use a buffing wheel to polish your pipes, remove oxidation from vulcanite stems etc.? If so, what do you use?

Many thanks
Steve

 

[ontariopiper]

I use a buffer with Red Tripoli and White Diamond compounds and Carnauba wax for polishing and light deoxidation. For heavier oxidation I soak the stems in Oxyclean and water then scrub off the oxidation with 0000 steel wool and/or Magic Eraser before taking the pipe to the buffer.

 

[DrSmoke]

I use a buffer with Red Tripoli and White Diamond compounds and Carnauba wax for polishing and light deoxidation. For heavier oxidation I soak the stems in Oxyclean and water then scrub off the oxidation with 0000 steel wool and/or Magic Eraser before taking the pipe to the buffer.

Many thanks for the reply... anything to be careful of? what type of buffing wheel? 1/2 horsepower buffer?

 

[ontariopiper]

Generally, you're looking for a buffer that can run at about 1750rpm. I use an old furnace blower motor for one wheel and a variable speed bench grinder that I mounted buffs on in place of the grindstones. It's slowest speed is about 2000rpm. Some guys will use a 3450rpm motor but the risk of having the pipe grabbed out of your hands is much higher, as is the risk of burning the pipe due to friction.

As for buffing wheels, I have always used bog-standard buffs available at hardware stores (I get mine from Princess Auto here in Canada) - sewn buffs for compounds and unsewn flannel buffs for wax. Lee Valley sells some good ones, ,and the Beall buffing system if that's of interest (https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho.../20092-beall-wood-buffing-system?item=44Z2001).

 

[DrSmoke]

Generally, you're looking for a buffer that can run at about 1750rpm. I use an old furnace blower motor for one wheel and a variable speed bench grinder that I mounted buffs on in place of the grindstones. It's slowest speed is about 2000rpm. Some guys will use a 3450rpm motor but the risk of having the pipe grabbed out of your hands is much higher, as is the risk of burning the pipe due to friction.

As for buffing wheels, I have always used bog-standard buffs available at hardware stores (I get mine from Princess Auto here in Canada) - sewn buffs for compounds and unsewn flannel buffs for wax. Lee Valley sells some good ones, ,and the Beall buffing system if that's of interest (https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho.../20092-beall-wood-buffing-system?item=44Z2001).

Once again, many thanks Ontario Piper!

 

[Ranger107]

I use Oxy clean and Mr. Clean magic eraser to remove any oxidation, takes some effort but works well and doesn't seem to remove any material. Then buff with blue buffing compound, the mildest, going slow with a really light touch so stem doesn't get hot. Finally use chrome polish on a paper towel and wipe off with microfiber cloth to really bring out the shine.

 

[Mikem]

I made a buffer using an old washing machine motor. I may be wrong but I think it turns less than 1750 RPM. I use carnuba wax along with several other different polishes depending on whether the bowl or stem. I purchased a motor from Pipe Makers Emporium years back but still have never set it up. I also have the big Jet dual shaft buffer but seldom use it. I guess I'm to use to using my homemade set up. It gets the job done.

 

[DrSmoke]

To summarize not only from the responses here but also from my desktop research (these are my opinions, so chime in!):
1. practice generates proficiency - so if you only do this once in a while, results will vary widely and not worth the investment in equipment - manual is fine (see below)
2. whether it's very fine steel wool or sandpaper (micromesh pads!), some of the material will be taken away - so be very careful with pressure when using these tools
3. Oxyclean or Magic erasers are fine for getting the top gunk layer off... I've seen videos of a piper using an exacto blade to remove heavy oxidation around the stem and lip. This piper is also a model builder so his technique is flawless, yours may not be... very careful doing this
4. polishing/buffing - whether you use a machine (that can take the pipe out of your hand and turn it into a flying object-never mind the damage to the pipe) or manual techniques... go slowly with only the necessary force to achieve your result especially if the stem is in the shank.
5. develop your own process to clean, buffer and polish.

Mine are:

• I clean the outside of my pipe after every smoke with a microfiber cloth - quick buff
• I take the stem out of the shaft, check the filter (after cool down!) if there is one for nastiness and pipe cleaner all parts and clean the bowl from stray baccy and loose buildup - 30-45 seconds per pipe
• once every 3 months or so, clean all vulcan pipe stems and use some type of oil (choose your own shiny stuff), polish the silver parts that show with a silver cloth. Smooth finish pipes once a year I hand polish with the waxes mentioned here while watching a movie. For me there is less chance of breaking something...
• I smoke 2-3 times per day on vacation. During normal working from home 1 bowl every few days. I can go for 1-2 weeks without smoking. So my processes above would need to be adjusted to your smoking frequency.

Hope you found the summary useful...

 

[Mikem]

........
4. polishing/buffing - whether you use a machine (that can take the pipe out of your hand and turn it into a flying object-never mind the damage to the pipe) or manual techniques... go slowly with only the necessary force to achieve your result especially if the stem is in the shank.........

Been there done that. At one time I had a box with foam rigged up downwind to catch a flying pipe. And you our correct on taking it slow and easy.

 

[Fight'n Hampsters]

I never thought of using a magic eraser. Great idea!

 

[lshines]

There are two places to buy buffing wheels, buffing rouge, etc. One: Vermont Freehand/Pimo - knows pipes. Get Obsidian sauce.
Two: Tarheel Parts in NC - and they are super at suggesting - and have customers (like me) who have discussed pipe restoration/buffing.

I would not use red tripoli - work instead with micromesh pads/sticks or above 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper WET. YMMV.

 

[lshines]

IF YOU WANT A SUPERB BUFFER - get a Baldor (1725rpm) (see Tar Heel Parts above). A less expensive is a Grizzly model G1061Z (again 1725 rpm). Both are expensive enough to have to justify ;-) the Grizzly is fine, I've used one for years - so the cost per year has gone down - that's how I explained it to my wife...

 

[DrSmoke]

Thanks Ishines, I live just outside Rotterdam the Netherlands

 

[Zeno Marx]

How do magic erasers do in comparison to micromesh pads? I have a Charatan double comfort stem with light oxidation, especially in the grooves of the double cut. I don't have to take much away. I was also wondering how magic erasers would do with toothpaste. My usual process for this is white toothpaste and a cotton rag, but it can take a while with more work that I feel like expending right now. If I can work less to get the same result, I'll do it. Avoiding spending $15 on the micromesh pads is also a consideration, but if it is clearly the easiest and best, I'll make the investment.

 

[Ranger107]

Zeno, being in aviation, I have used micromesh for years, clear up to 5000 grit. Micromesh, no matter what grade, will remove some surface material, just less and less as you move to higher levels. At 4 to 5K you are mostly polishing. We used it to polish a/c windshields. Magic Eraser with some oxy clean will take off residue while removing very little or no material. Just go slow. It really doesn't take that much time, and yes, way cheaper than micromesh.

 

[Niblick]

For your oxidation issue at only the step in your Charatan Zeno I would suggest raising the oxidation with a Bic lighter or what I use a tea candle. Gently fan the stem above the flame and raise the oxidation and remove with a wet paper cloth. Practice first on old stems you would not care about to figure out your own technique. Followed by polishing with micromesh/magic eraser or whatever you would use to finish polishing the stem with.

 

[Zeno Marx]

Thanks, Ranger107 and Niblick. I've heard of using flame, but I've never done it. Maybe read it on reborn pipes blog? I think he used it to maybe lessen a bite mark?

 

[Blackhorse]

Seems to me that this is a classic example of why it’s good to be a member here. What an incredible wealth of great information. Kudos to all y’all for stepping up. A great read.

My only very basic additions would be 1) go very, very slowly…then slow down a little more…2) a good Fordom Flexible Shaft or Dremel with a felt, then soft rag bit does a very excellent job…3). dedicate each buffing pad to one specific compound (DUH!) or you’ll always be buffing with the most coarse compound no matter how much finer you add…4) if you have long hair, keep it totally away from your buffer…super dangerous!

Um…did I mention to SLOW DOWN?

 

[Zeno Marx]

Right on. Most of my pipes have lucite bits, so I haven't had a lot of practice with vulcanite lately, and back when I worked in shops, we only used buffing wheels. My mentor only used a buffing wheel, and anyone from our local group of smokers went to him for detailing. He was very good with the buffing wheel. You know what you learn. None of the little tricks we now discuss were out in the open. It's the darn double comfort ridges that have me avoiding the buffing wheel now.

 

[Ranger107]

Wheels not absolutely necessary. Simple hand polishing with some jewelers rouge or even buffing compound works wonders and doesn't take that much effort.