Vulcanite stem restoration

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Brewdude

Brewdude

Broken Pipe
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I've read great things about the Vulcanite stem restoration kit from Walker Briar Works. Apparently the deoxidizer/cleaner completely removes the oxidation, and then the Carnuba wax/polisher/sealer step insures that the oxidation does not return.

According to Walker Briar Works, "If you apply the Carnauba Wax/Polish/Sealer to your stems every one or two months, they will NEVER OXIDIZE AGAIN. "

I've about 9 or 10 pipes with vulcanite stems. Mostly Petes but several Savililles, one old Edwards Oom Paul, and my very first Chacom. The level of oxidation ranges from mild to moderate.

Tried one suggestion of the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on a few stems. That was sort of OK for a little while, but the discoloration came back pretty past.

Also tried out the "Brebbia Pipe and mouthpiece polish". Similar results.

So I have high hopes for the Walker kit. It seems to get high marks here. Sure dislike the oxidation I have on the stems and want to be rid of it. And this doesn't involve a buffing wheel, which I don't have. So that's a plus.

Anyone else use this?

Here's the link iffen you're interested-

http://www.walkerbriarworks.com/html/stem_restore_kit.html



Cheers,

RR
 
I've read mixed reviews of Walkers stuff and I've seen before and after photos of some stems treated with his formula. It appears to work but still calls for quite a bit of elbow grease.
As for the carnuba paste he sells...you can make your own easily enough.

Here's one way:

20g Carnauba flakes
5g Beeswax
50ml Coconut Oil

Melt the carnauba flakes and beeswax granules in a glass jar (put the jar in a saucepan of boiling water), or double boiler. The beeswax will melt faster than the carnauba, which turns to an amber liquid. When the waxes have melted completely add the coconut oil, and reheat while stirring. Remove the glass jar from the saucepan and allow to cool gradually. A hard wax will form...you can add more beeswax to soften the mixture if you choose to do so in order to make it easier to work with. You don't want to make it too soft because it won't stay on the stem. There is nothing in the mixture that could damage the stem.

You can use barkeepers friend to remove the oxidation and then use Chapstick or olive oil after every smoke to keep oxidation away. It works but it's a pain in the patoot. The mixture above lasts longer and a monthly treatment should do the trick.

It pays to have a chemist in the family. I have my own mixture of 6 chemicals that does the job of restoring a stem by actually nuetralizing the oxygen in the sulfur in the surface of the vulcanite after breaking down and removing any existing oxidation. Since the oxygen in the sulfer is neutralized by two of the chemicals it doesn't cause problems anymore. I'm smoking pipes that I "de-oxidized" almost two years ago and oxidation has not recurred despite using nothing to protect the stems. I can't reveal the contents for three reasons. The first is that it's still in the testing phase to see how long the stems will remain unoxidized. The second is because I'm looking into possibly marketing the stuff. I had no idea it would be so damned complicated. The third is because there is a second party involved and that can get nasty.

I use carnuba and a buffer to shine the stems in the summer but in the winter, since my garage is unheated, I use a mixture like the one above to protect the cleaned stems.

There are other ways of making a carnuba paste wax but one must be careful because it's not difficult to damage vulcanite with some of the solvents used in some wax preperations.

Faster and easier to buy Walkers but if you're a DIY'er..................

 
It seems to be worth a try.

What I have been doing with great results I post here: https://www.brothersofbriar.com/t16730-stem-oil-and-polishing
 
Im going to try it...just placed an order, thanks for the link. I ordered the full kit for $20...its worth a shot for that low price.
 
Tried Walker Briar Works stem cleaning kit today and am less than happy with the results.

It looked like I succeed in removing the oxidation on 2 stems, but after applying the carnuba wax and then looking at them carefully I see some obvious areas that need more work.

I spent about 10 minutes on each stem in bright light and thought I'd removed all of the oxidation with the cleaning compound. At least it looked like I did after much rubbing!

So I'm a little discouraged at this point. I really can't see myself spending too much time on this if it's going to produce similar results on the other vulcanite stems I have that need attention. Have to admit I just don't have the patience for it.

Nor do I want to invest in a buffing wheel and all that set-up, so will probably see if I can get this done professionally. Don't like to fuss with things like this!


ymmv


Cheers,

RR
 
If the first application doesn't remove all the oxidation, Dave recommends applying another coat of the compound and waiting 30 minutes so that the solvent he uses can soften and remove the deep oxidation. Maybe it needs that longer "soak" but if you don't want to fool with it then that's that.
 
Brewdude":2szinpqj said:
Tried Walker Briar Works stem cleaning kit today and am less than happy with the results.

It looked like I succeed in removing the oxidation on 2 stems, but after applying the carnuba wax and then looking at them carefully I see some obvious areas that need more work.

I spent about 10 minutes on each stem in bright light and thought I'd removed all of the oxidation with the cleaning compound. At least it looked like I did after much rubbing!

So I'm a little discouraged at this point. I really can't see myself spending too much time on this if it's going to produce similar results on the other vulcanite stems I have that need attention. Have to admit I just don't have the patience for it.

Nor do I want to invest in a buffing wheel and all that set-up, so will probably see if I can get this done professionally. Don't like to fuss with things like this!


ymmv



Cheers,

RR
Click to expand...
A good way to check if you have all the oxidation off is to dip the stem in water. If you have missed any areas it will show up as greenish/yellowish. On a heavily oxidized stem you might consider wet sanding.
I usually start with 400 grit and work up to 800 or even 1000 grit and then buff. Since you don't have a buffer,the higher you sand it the easier it will be to get it shine. Micro -Mesh is also good to use and you can put a decent shine on a stem with just the Micro-Mesh.
 
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