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The Pipe Showcase
My Photo Lab (*ATTN: Zulu Collector)
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<blockquote data-quote="glpease" data-source="post: 18155" data-attributes="member: 18"><p>Dock, you've got a couple things going wrong. First, and most obvious, is the white balance. Using auto WB will generate unpredictable results. Since your light source is relatively constant, you should set a manual WB for the setup, and use that. Your backdrop won't be going through weird colour shifts, then. </p><p></p><p>Second, manual exposure! The meter in the camera will do its best, but in high-contrast situations, it'll often be wrong. With a lot of white being metered, the camera will tend toward underexposure. If the meter's area is filled with a dark pipe, it'll overexpose. Setting the exposure manually will provide greater consistency. </p><p></p><p>Use a grey card. Or, meter from the same white card every time, and set the camera to 2 to 3 stops more exposure than the reading. (You'll have to experiment to get it right.)</p><p></p><p>Finally, use some fill lighting to get into the darker areas. Marcus made some excellent suggestions. I'd also suggest using some reflectors, just white cards will do, to spil some light back onto the front of the pipe. </p><p></p><p>When I shoot in a tent, I use a lare white foam-cor reflector with a hole cut out for my lens. It's usually just enough to open up the shadows a little.</p><p></p><p>-glp</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="glpease, post: 18155, member: 18"] Dock, you've got a couple things going wrong. First, and most obvious, is the white balance. Using auto WB will generate unpredictable results. Since your light source is relatively constant, you should set a manual WB for the setup, and use that. Your backdrop won't be going through weird colour shifts, then. Second, manual exposure! The meter in the camera will do its best, but in high-contrast situations, it'll often be wrong. With a lot of white being metered, the camera will tend toward underexposure. If the meter's area is filled with a dark pipe, it'll overexpose. Setting the exposure manually will provide greater consistency. Use a grey card. Or, meter from the same white card every time, and set the camera to 2 to 3 stops more exposure than the reading. (You'll have to experiment to get it right.) Finally, use some fill lighting to get into the darker areas. Marcus made some excellent suggestions. I'd also suggest using some reflectors, just white cards will do, to spil some light back onto the front of the pipe. When I shoot in a tent, I use a lare white foam-cor reflector with a hole cut out for my lens. It's usually just enough to open up the shadows a little. -glp [/QUOTE]
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