Water Based wood stain

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klatham

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What is the common opinion on using Minwax Water Based Stains on new briars? Saw some today and liked the finish that it provided but wanted to ask some more senior gents....
 
In my humble opinion:


DONT YOU DARE DO IT


If you want to treat your pipes well, just use carnauba wax, or at the most an extremely thin layer of shellac. All that other crap clogs the pores in the briar and it really heats up during smoking.
 
I wasn't even aware Minwax made a water-based stain. I know their canned furniture finish products at the home stores aren't--unless I'm dead wrong. Regardless, briar and the other wood out there used to make furniture are totally different, both in grain, look and how they're used. Much like using lead-based paint on kid's toys isn't a good idea, I'm pretty sure Minwax is a similar bad idea for wood that's going to be heating up a lot and taken into the mouth.

As for the powdered, regular water-based stains, I just find them completely messy and sometimes rear their ugly heads when the moisture of a pipe hits them. I'm using alcohol-based stains from now on.

8)
 
I only used alchohol based now, but they had some interesting colors and I thought Id ask. Im looking ofr more color options
 
klatham":a3579ilg said:
I only used alchohol based now, but they had some interesting colors and I thought Id ask. Im looking ofr more color options
If you get an alcohol-based six-color pack you can easily mix your own colors. :) I only have yellow, blue, red, and black powders, for example. Guitar-making sites have pre-mixed (and often crazy) colors, if you like, though.

Here's one kit that might work and is priced right...(in case others are reading and wondering WTF)...

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Dyes&NameProdHeader=Aniline+Dyes+Alcohol+Soluble
 
I'm with Kyle, here. Go with alcohol based stains and you'll be on your way. Plus they won't come off on your sweaty hands like water based will! :shock:
 
OK follow up, where is a good source of a wide range of alchohol based stains?
 
Fiebing's Leather Dye. Seriously. Excellent for briar...it's what all the big boys use.


Since there are so many more sites I use for supplies for my knifemaking stuff...I found one that has lots of different colors of the Fiebing's dye...they call it an 'oil based' dye but it's alcohol based. Here's a link for Janz...which is good cause it's under $5 a jar and they have a flat rate shipping thing set a a shade under ten bucks. They're good people.

http://www.knifemaking.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=dye
 
BH is right on, the leather dye workd great wont break the bank and has many colors. MIKE
 
My favorite use of these so far has a two-color dye job...dark brown to start with and then sand it down and then mahogany on top. Looks really nice.

One of the guides to staining that I've seen said to always use the dark dye first (DUH!) and then use a really different color on top. One said that using yellow on top was excellent. Hmmmm.

I've always wanted to do a green pipe - and one of the things about the Fiebings dye is that it REALLY dyes the briar, deeply. So I was thinking really dark brown or black on the first color and then green. The Fiebings would be good with green I'm thinking, as I guess it's hard to keep green from fading for something - for some reason. At least if any of the issues Peterson has had with their green stains is any indication. Well, that's another story I guess.

Fiebings. Use the Fiebings, Luke.

- or -


Use the Fiebings you will, and send all the extra to me. Pleased you are that you will do this. An excellent maker you are, and your Master well you serve.


OK - enough of that #hit.
 
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