Yet another Aranyik blade...a 17" baby Nep.

[Blackhorse]

I've got the large one and it's a beast. I just ordered this small version and it promises to be a semi beast. These are 5160 well tempered spring steel, convex ground. Sharp and tougher than nails for sure. Both sizes are $25 plus shipping from Kauai, HI. On the smaller size to Portland, shipping was $12. Stock on the big one is good...only 4 left of the small size.

Photos and details below:

Small Pack Knife in Traditional Nep Style blade. Balance moved towards center for precision detailed work...the blade has been is cut in weight and size for packability. The weight ranges from 1.1-1.3 lbs, The overall length is 16.5-17". The handle is 6.5" to provide counterbalance. The belly portion of the knife is 2.5" wide.

(Note: the large version...the E Nep looks just the same but Specs are: 3/16" Thick, 19.5" Long, 7" handle, 3.25" Thick at widest point at belly...so just a bit more of everything. Weight - 1.85 lbs - 2 lbs)

 

[Blackhorse]

The little Aranyik eNep came in today.

If it's possible that one can have a 17" EDC this is it. It came shaving sharp. Very close to scary sharp.

Whereas the big E Nep is akin to a felling axe...this small one is like a camp hatchet.

It's totally one to keep close.

A friend.

I'm Lovin' it!

I might just have to get hold of Harry Savage for another custom sheath after the first of the year.


Look up "savagesheaths". Exceptional work for military and field pieces.

 

[Richard Burley]

Reminds me of my allegedly genuine British Ghurka Army kukri-- a "knife" that I've haven't quite figured out how to intelligently sharpen the concave section of the blade. You probably know this, but be careful drawing that from a sheath. A friend of mine cut his hand severely doing just that. Tendons and all. You get the picture.

 

[Blackhorse]

Mr. Burley - yes, I'm careful. Thanks. I feel very badly for your friend...in many ways.

Re sharpening the concave section of the blade...Miles, of Aranyik uses a slow wheel with water stone. Once the initial razor (literally) edge is there I keep it in good condition with a Buck diamond tri-hone and a strop of the same configuration. If they get too nicked up then a standard "half round" file works...though I've gotten away from using files as they tear the edge up. I like diamond sharpeners above all.

The Buck tri-hone...

https://www.amazon.com/Buck-Knives-97082-EdgeTek-Sharpener/dp/B006YBY8V6/ref=pd_sbs_200_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WFTXS9T6H7BTWB3PM3DX

The strope is from "strop man" and is called the Triad Leather Strop".

 

[Richard Burley]

Think I'll give the Buck a try, BH. Thanks.  8)

 

[Ozark Wizard]

Now that is a sweetheart of a blade.

 

[Idlefellow]

I gotta ask: what does one do with a knife that big?  Other than collect it I mean.  This is not a flame or criticism in any way; I'm genuinely curious.  Gun shows have a lot of knife vendors, and the big knives always seem to attract the most attention, and I find myself thinking, "Yeah, it's cool, but what would you do with it?   Then again, this is what rides in my fishing bag, so what do I know?

 

[Lonecoyote]

Real handy blade to have near by for sure and 5160 steel is super hard and stays sharp when properly Heat treated and tempered. I have the 5160 to make myself one, I see my next knife project in early Spring.
Blackhorse, enjoy yours for many years to come.
May you and your family HAVE A VERY HAPPY & HEALTHY NEW YEAR.

KEEP ON PUFFING!!!

 

[Richard Burley]

I gotta ask: what does one do with a knife that big?...

Hacking and batoning, in my case. They're quite handy when camping or maintaining property. Once you get used to them you don't want to go without. But your point is well taken--most smaller knives will do most of what a larger blade will. Then there are legal issues, people looking askance, etc. But no one will be laughing when the zombies come.

 

[Blackhorse]

The value and application is in...

1. The kind of steel
2. How it is heat treated
3. What kind of edge grind it has (hopefully convexed)
4. The specific blade profile
5. The overall weight & balance
6. The handle profile...and...
7. The type of wood growing in your region.

I live in Western Oregon, so...mostly fir, pine, cedar, hemlock, spruce on the conifer side and maple, birch, alder for deciduous.

These blades are developed over centuries of use in THEIR home territory...the eNep in Thailand...the Parang in Malaysia...plus the Golock, the Kukuri (or whatever) is other regions. They are primarily farm, jungle, forest & military tools. They are meant to be choppers specializing in soft to semi hard woods...and also as an all in one tool to do chopping, splitting, cleaving, fabricating, etc.

My big eNep and the cleaver design will chop 3" to 4" maple branches as easily as an axe. It will also split firewood as easily. Then it will do camp duty as a brush clearing tool and round things out with kitchen prep. Also super for either bushcrafting or the big backup/emergency blade in the trunk.

It these situations you absolutely follow the old axe mantra...letting the weight of the tool do the work FOR you. You don't swing away as hard as you can, expending massive amounts of energy. You use the very heavy weight of the tool...get it swinging, and sink it into the target wood as accurately as possible.

They also do a good general job on suckers, stubborn vines and cane berries.

And yes, the occasional garden variety Zombie.

That's MY story on 'em. Quite honestly, if you can't really see the need for one...then you DON'T need it.

 

[Ozark Wizard]

I've had this blade for quite some time. Traded with a fellow in Honduras for another tool I had he wanted. Back then it had a Purple Heart wood handle wrapped in duct tape. I keep meaning to put new wood on it, but never got a round TUIT. I use it for clearing brush, dressing rabbits, small campfire wood chopping, etc. Rather heavy, 17 inches long. Been very handy to have about...

 

[Blackhorse]

I've got one I need to put a new handle on too. Picked it up at gun show for twenty bucks. It's marked "Sheffield" on the blade...which looks as oxidized as yours. The blade is thin compared to the Aranyik pieces...designed for Latin jungle work on big leaves, thin woods, etc. Which involves lots of hacking for long periods...trail work. Exhausting.

If I was in Ozzie's neck of the woods I'd use some indigenous Osage Orange for a new handle. Super good for tool handles. Just a thought.

 

[Ozark Wizard]

Yah, I've got some 'bookends' of a couple of woods I'm thinking of using for a handle. Even have some Oz. Orange grips rough shaped. Just haven't settled down long enough to look at it hard. Maybe too many pokers in the fire? I dunno. Or lazy.............

 

[Richard Burley]

... Once the initial razor (literally) edge is there I keep it in good condition with a Buck diamond tri-hone...

Just used this on a chef's knife that hasn't been really sharp since my mother abused it decades ago. Works great for my purposes. Thanks.

 

[Blackhorse]

Excellent. Glad to hear it.