idbowman":luyg2zmc said:
What hand tools are you using for this project, Martin?
I ask because I've been giving a lot of thought to getting a kit and working slow and steady by hand. I've actually been giving this more and more thought lately, but don't really know what I'm in for. I have no power tools to work with (unless an electric hedge trimmer or a chainsaw would come in handy), but have plenty of hand tools at my disposal. The idea of taking a lot of time to work on one pipe is incredibly appealing to me...if nothing else, it gives me something to tinker with and a perfect excuse to retreat to the smoking room!
Hey - I have been thinking of posting some pics of my make-shift shop.
I have a cheap coping saw which I use to cut the block a little. I basically, very roughly, outline the shank of the briar. The area of the bowl will stay completely as it is. (You can get a coping saw for like $5)
The tool I still use mostly for roughing in the basic shape, is a converted grinder. I bought the grinder off Craigslist for $20 bucks, but Harborfreight tools has them for about $40 bucks or so, if I'm correct. I took the grinding stones off the machine and cut off all the metal that was there to protect you from grinding debris. It just gets in the way. All I have now is the motor with the metal stud or screw protruding on the sides. I've attached a flat sanding disk and then put 80grit sandpaper on the disk. It works quick, sometimes too quick.
While doing this the first couple of times, my poor shop turned into Tatooine. Needless to say, I took an old diaper box we had laying around, and a crap load of duct tape and create a contraption to fit around the grinder housing. This allows me to stick my shop vac in the back of it to vaccum up the sand dust, and I have enough room in front to see what I'm doing. When I start shaping the briar I go slow, as slow as I can. Sometimes it gets frustrating because it's hard to keep everything proportional, especially the bowl.
I also purchased, only recently, some calipers
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/specialty-measuring/6-piece-technical-measuring-set-94447.html
I use these to help me stay on target as I'm sanding with the grinder.
After I have my 2nd stage rough shape, I use the rasps.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/files/12-piece-file-and-rasp-set-97070.html
I then spent a lot of elbow grease getting the thing in it's final shape. A method I used eventually, was to place the rasp tip on the table. However, between the table and the raps I had an old towel. This kept the vibration and noise down. I then moved the briar across the rasp, as little or as much as I thought it needed.
Once I had all of this done, the final shape was almost complete. However, I now needed to use something else to bring the shape even on all sides of the pipe, especially the bowl.
My newest discovery this time around, was using a palm sander. For christmas I received a $30 palm sander, also from Harborfreight tools (man I'm sounding like a friggin commercial for that outfit)
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/5-inch-random-orbital-palm-sander-93431.html
When I first started on my pipe making experiment, I went out and bought the cheapest, attachable vise. The vise is screwed into one of my workshop tables. I then secured the palm sander, upside down, and used the 100 grit sand paper to give the pipe it's first smooth sanding. It was really easy, and gentle to remove any gouges I made with the rasps.
I moved the briar across the sander, using as little or much force as I thought best. I inspected the briar dozens upon dozens of times, just to see how it was going. I used the calipers to try and figure out if I was doing an even job. I suck at using the calipers, and will need to learn more there.
However, after I ran the entire thing through the 100 and 120 grit on the palm sander, it began looking really nice.
That's where I am now. The next step is to gently re-sand it with 150 or 200 grit sand paper, get it completely smooth with not rough or jagged edges, and then work by hand to sand it with 500.
Then I will stain the thing.
After that I will change out the sanding wheel on the grinder, and mount the buffing wheel. I have the Pimo buffing wheels and they are amazing. My plan of attack is to use the tripoli I have, then 1200 high gloss compound, and finally the carnuba wax.
I will try to make some sort of pictorial at some point, if that would help.
Martin