Cleaning and refurbishing advice

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Briarbabe

Briarbabe

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So, I've been picking up a couple old pipes here and there from family and the occasional flea market. What's the best way to clean, sanitize and breath new life into them? Most of them look like they need very little to be nice little pipes again.

Speak to me of supplies, methods, determining what needs to be done, where to start, etc. ...
 
Briarbabe":ngrrcnqa said:
So, I've been picking up a couple old pipes here and there from family and the occasional flea market. What's the best way to clean, sanitize and breath new life into them? Most of them look like they need very little to be nice little pipes again.

Speak to me of supplies, methods, determining what needs to be done, where to start, etc. ...
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Unless the pipe you want to "clean" has been smoked to death, in which case I'd send it off to ones choice of pro to do this, it's really a pretty simple process requiring not to much more in supplies than what you might already have at hand. First thing I would do would be get whatever cake is in it removed to where you want it, completely if it has any lingering aroma's of heavy ARO use, less if not. For this you'd need a good reaming tool such as a "Reem-n-Kleen" reamer or it's equivalent. They can still be bought new at e-tailers or used on e-prey at reasonable costs, LESS than a new briar for sure !! Then once the removal of the old cake take a wire stem brush, again available at many e-tailers and not expensive so buy several when you do!! I take a good whiskey and dip the brush in it and scrub out the airway in the stem and bit finishing up with a clean pipe clnr till it comes out of both clean and dry. I apply the whiskey/alcohol to the inside of the reamed bowl and let it dry then reassemble bit and pipe and let 'em "dry out" for a couple of days. As far as the outside of the stem, unless it's heavily oxidized and or chwed, or scratched I don't do much more than some mineral oil and bit polish and mabe some carnuba wax on a cloth at the end. I don't have access to a buffing wheel so any bowl or stem polishing for me is a hand thing with a flannel cloth ( old flannel shirt back does well and gets better as it's used over the years) with some carnuba wax! And since your not really "breaking in" a used pipe ( the previous owner did this for you) all you will be doing is building the level of cake you prefer for your smoking method! For me, I load up a "new" used pipe with a FULL bowl of my fave Red Va Flake, FM 2000, light 'er up a Onward thru the Fog ! :twisted: :twisted: Easy peasy :twisted: :twisted:
 
Where can I pick up carnubaxwax? Or is it something I'll need to order?
 
Briarbabe":43idw915 said:
Where can I pick up carnubaxwax? Or is it something I'll need to order?
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Most auto supply stores carry it as well as many of the "Hobby/Craft" type shops. A LITTLE goes a LOOOONG way !! I've got a tin of it I bought probably 10 years ago :twisted: :twisted:
 
You'll need to order the wax and have some sort of buffer to apply it. I just a 6" buff mounted in a hand drill clamped in a bench vise. I'd recommend getting some red tripoli buffing compound and white diamond compound as well (separate buffs for each).

If the stems are oxidized (turning some sort of brown, green, or grey) they'll need to be sanded. You can bleach soak them (put some petroleum jelly on the tenon) and soak in some bleach-water solution until they turn a rough black. Then you have to sand them smooth anyway. 400, 600, 800 or so should be good, maybe just 400 grit. Then the whole pipe can get red trip, white diamond compound, and if you want wax the whole thing (the stem may not need it). Make sure to do all the sanding and buffing with the stem in the pipe, or it'll round the edges and you'll make the transition from stem to shank sloppy looking. I'm not sure exactly how to do this without sanding the shank and having to re-stain it, so maybe someone better can chime in.

For the chamber, after you ream it out, you can do a salt and alcohol treatment (Google it) or use a retort (available on eBay, see video at end). Just be VERY CAREFUL not to get alcohol on the finish, because it can mess up the stain.

I hope this is helpful!

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Re: Carnuaba Wax, pure wax must be applied with a buffer because it doesn't melt unless it gets hot (friction from the buffer). Any wax you're applying with a hand clothe is dissolved in something or otherwise mixed with other stuff. If you don't have a buffer and don't want one, then by all means use that sort of thing.

I also forgot to mention rim char. If the top of the pipe is level, you can usually spit on a paper towel, lay it on a flat surface, and twist the pipe's rim on it while applying pressure to remove the char without damaging the finish too much.
 
Thomas Tkach":wo1l2gni said:
Re: Carnuaba Wax, pure wax must be applied with a buffer because it doesn't melt unless it gets hot (friction from the buffer). Any wax you're applying with a hand clothe is dissolved in something or otherwise mixed with other stuff. If you don't have a buffer and don't want one, then by all means use that sort of thing.

I also forgot to mention rim char. If the top of the pipe is level, you can usually spit on a paper towel, lay it on a flat surface, and twist the pipe's rim on it while applying pressure to remove the char without damaging the finish too much.
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You can warm the tin in a saucepan of water and apply it with your fingers or a cloth as well and hand buff it with a all cotton flannel cloth (left over flannel shirts work well) .It gives 'em a nice "sheen" as opposed to a high gloss shine. It works as I've done it this way without a buffing wheel for several decades now. :twisted:
 
These guys have covered most of what I do in my process as well!

Stem Oxidation: Bleach until it is rough and black (an LED flashlight on the stem will show you if there are any brown spots left). If it has an aluminum tenon or spitless-spout of some sort, cover it in vaseline THICK, and tuck a pipe cleaner covered in vaseline in the aluminum tenon. This prevents the bleach from eating the aluminum (or any metal) away. Medicine bottles and spice bottles work well as small containers for the bleaching process. After that I use 500, 1000, 1200 grit sandpaper and WET sand it. If I am feeling ambitious or the stem is special to me, I will then use micromesh pads 1500 and 1800. (Side Note: My set of pads has 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12,000. If I go through the whole set then I don't even have to use a buffer and the stems have an amazing glossy finish. This is way too time consuming though unless it is a VERY special pipe). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-Mesh-Micromesh-3-x-4-Soft-Touch-Sanding-Pad-Variety-Pack-Luthier-tools-/131348223007?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item1e94f6d41f. If you have issues with teeth marks or holes, there is an extended process that I can PM you.

Bowl: Ream out the bowl. I have two different reamers. The Castleford is the easiest but my other reamer has its purposes! After reaming it, I use Q-tips and high proof cheap vodka to clean out any gunk in there. Expect to go through a few q-tips. I also use the q-tips and vodka on the shank in addition to regular pipe cleaners. Walmart sells big fuzzy pipe cleaners that have thin wire. They prove to be quite useful and inexpensive. Here are the two reamers I use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Castleford-5-Piece-Multi-Fit-Tobacco-Pipe-Reamer-Tool-SHIP-FREE-/331366211957?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d26f72175 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Senior-Reamer-Pipe-Reamer-Cleaner-ALL-METAL-NEW-/331145635268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d19d165c4

Finish: I Use an inexpensive buffer that I picked up at Harbor Freight. It has two 6 inch buffing pads. First pad I use red tipoli to buff up the stem and the bowl. I then wipe any excess off with a paper towel and look it over to make sure I didn't miss any spots. The second pad I use carnuba wax and then repeat the process with the paper towel.

If you have any questions feel free to PM me. I would also be willing to clean up a pipe or two if anybody needed it!
 
Without trying to sound rude but, only to just suggest. I'm unsure why your using a paper towel to wipe off the stummel and stem except that you might be overloading the buff. I think you'll find it much easier as I do to just use a clean cotton or flannel buff afterwards to clean any residue left and it gives a good finish polish to it ta boot.
If you only have the one buffer you can get a key-less chuck to fit one side of the buffer, I've found this makes a quick change very easy, specially when using many grits of rouge. ;)
 
Oh yeah! That would definitely work too with cotton or flannel buff! It's just quick and easy to use the paper towel rather than switching my buffing pad. Also, the gentlemen who originally showed me how to buff used a paper towel and so I guess I just picked it up as part of the ritual.

I would really love to have a workshop decked out with all of my pipe stuff one day! Add a second buffer with cotton and flannel buffers for finishing off after the wax, a real work table, wall racks for my pipes, proper lighting... I'm starting to salivate, I should stop dreaming before I go spend money on a workshop I don't have! Yet. ;)
 
Damn it Cart! You made Kaitlyn drool all over my thread... now we do need those paper towels.
 
Briarbabe":xh1q004y said:
Damn it Cart! You made Kaitlyn drool all over my thread... now we do need those paper towels.
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I'm sorry, that happens from time to time when I talk to girls.
 
Cartaphilus":uq9ibd51 said:
Briarbabe":uq9ibd51 said:
Damn it Cart! You made Kaitlyn drool all over my thread... now we do need those paper towels.
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I'm sorry, that happens from time to time when I talk to girls.
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:lol!: :lol!: :lol!: Such a stud!
 
Don't worry, I still have a roll of paper towels... I always clean up after myself!

Now let's get back to our pipe banter ;)
 
kaitlyn3837":5hkofpdw said:
Don't worry, I still have a roll of paper towels... I always clean up after myself!

Now let's get back to our pipe banter ;)
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Now, it seems I have the shop you want, but you have the tools I need. :) Isn't that how it always goes?
 
Hmmmmmm, it does seem to play out that way! I recently bought a house though and it has a garage. Once I get the important stuff fixed up on the house (foreclosure), I have some big plans for that garage!
 
kaitlyn3837":6uabd51n said:
Hmmmmmm, it does seem to play out that way! I recently bought a house though and it has a garage. Once I get the important stuff fixed up on the house (foreclosure), I have some big plans for that garage!
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Sounds great. The property my sweetie and I rent has a huge shop. The owners that had it before it became a rental had a bicycle repair shop in it. Lots of room for tinkering. We are looking to buy next year and that's a prerequisite. Some place that has a shop or garage space. Is going to be tough to beat this place though.
 
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