Filling holes/pitting in stem?

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TonyS

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Haven't find anything on this and I just got a nice Savinelli Estella 606KS estate. The stem has a good sized pit...about a 1/8" bite almost-thru-hole on the underside of the stem right in front of the bit. I tried taking a pix but just can't get a good enough shot of it. Should I even attempt to fill it ....if so what do you guys recommend?
 
I'd be bold enough to suggest sending it to a place like Walker Briar Works for a new stem. 8)
 
Kyle Weiss":d50hni8c said:
I'd be bold enough to suggest sending it to a place like Walker Briar Works for a new stem. 8)
I hear ya on that, Kyle, but I'm a do-it-myself guy. I'm always up for learning new things. I don't think this should be that big an undertaking, though I've been wrong before. :)
 
I've had success filling deep bite marks with super glue. Let it dry for a good long time and then sand it down to size. After a nice buffing you can hardly tell it's a fill. I have only done this on vulcanite stems, so I can't say how it would work on lucite.

It's a good, practical solution, and not permanent. The super glue doesn't seem to bond to vulcanite by melting together. It just sits snugly in the crevice and will flake off eventually. Good if you ever wish to sell the pipe in original condition.
 
MisterE":7dxu6dba said:
I've had success filling deep bite marks with super glue. Let it dry for a good long time and then sand it down to size. After a nice buffing you can hardly tell it's a fill. I have only done this on vulcanite stems, so I can't say how it would work on lucite.

It's a good, practical solution, and not permanent. The super glue doesn't seem to bond to vulcanite by melting together. It just sits snugly in the crevice and will flake off eventually. Good if you ever wish to sell the pipe in original condition.
Hmmm...super glue... that might work, MisterE. I tried spot-heating the hole seeing if it would soften enough to maybe come back together but nope. I bit the bullet (or should I say stem :lol:) and applied my go-to glue, JB Weld. It took very little to fill the hole and I smoothed it nicely. JB Weld's supposedly non-toxic when fully cured, will withstand 500F with a max brief 600F, can be sanded, and will stick to a lot of plastics. I will admit I've used it for just about anything and everything over the years and it's rarely let me down....and I'm still alive! :monkey: It should take minimal sanding to get it completely smooth but I think it'll be fine when it cures. I'll shoot some shots when it's cured in case anyone cares.
 
I have spot heated vulcanite stems after insetting a blade into the button end to push the indention out from inside. That does work for small indentations.
I have read that you can melt vulcanite dust in to the hole and then sand it to shape. A "red neck" method is to use a piece of heat shrink tubing around the stem like for rubber bite protectors.

Good luck Tony. Post some before and after pictures.
 
loneredtree":d273xky1 said:
A "red neck" method is to use a piece of heat shrink tubing around the stem like for rubber bite protectors.
Can't say I haven't done that... :oops: But I hated the way the pipe smoked due to drilling, so haven't had to do it since then. :lol: Worked okay! Just ain't too pretty.

8)
 
Ladies and gents, so far, so good for the JB Weld. I lightly sanded the spot down and then polished the stem up. I just got done herfing a bowl of Orlik Golden Sliced and the JB Weld isn't noticeable. We'll see how long it holds up but for now I'm a happy herfer! :bounce: :D

Oh, ps gotta get batts for camera and then I'll post a shot.
 
FWIW My favorite pipe mentor from decades ago had the theory that such defects were actually honorable scars incurred in use. He carried with him an ample supply of cleaners and a small polishing cloth for daily use, but tooth marks, minor scratches and the like were stoically accepted. I'm not saying this is the right approach for all, but It's worked for me.
 
KevinM":myb1w26x said:
FWIW My favorite pipe mentor from decades ago had the theory that such defects were actually honorable scars incurred in use. He carried with him an ample supply of cleaners and a small polishing cloth for daily use, but tooth marks, minor scratches and the like were stoically accepted. I'm not saying this is the right approach for all, but It's worked for me.
I like that. I'd feel much better putting them there myself, rather than chomping on some other fella's tooth holes, but there's no shame in a "working pipe" showing off its history & personality... I agree.

8)
 
I have pipes I bought nearly 50 years ago, some with stems that I've bitten through. I've always maintained them well though not fanatically -- i.e., I don't strive for "good as new." Such as my personal history is, my pipes have been the objects that have longest accompanied me through it. So what if they show a few toothmarks and scratches. I put 'em there while studying, on walks with long-gone pooches, out with friends, watching tides come in, relaxing after working on my red MG . . . My Bewlay emerald, given to me by my missus on our first C'mas together, shows its age, but that's okay.
 
JB weld is a fine solution, but if you do decide to try super glue in the future - it can be had in black!

Stewmac is one supplier, and there are a couple others. There's also an article on the finer points of patching with black super glue (even patching true holes!) over on the Reborn Pipes blog.
 
pipesbyjake":ve04ce03 said:
JB weld is a fine solution, but if you do decide to try super glue in the future - it can be had in black!

Stewmac is one supplier, and there are a couple others. There's also an article on the finer points of patching with black super glue (even patching true holes!) over on the Reborn Pipes blog.
StewMac also sells black, slow-setting epoxy. Really tough stuff ...

STEWMAC Adhesives page
 
I can't remember what I used but I think it was food dye to color JB Weld years ago. Anyway, I don't care about the gray color. If you're using one of those rubber bite pieces over it it won't be seen anyway. FWIW, the JB Weld is still there holding fine.
 
I need to order some of that black, Stewmac super-glue. +1 on the Reborn Pipes blog for techniques.
I've used regular Superglue with success, I mix in a little vulcanite dust to get it black. It blends in quite nicely.

This Comoys stem had a sizeable divot out of the top of the stem, right in front of the button, lower left. Now, all but invisible.

Comoys_215_Patina_Finished%2520%25283%2529.JPG
 
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