My Technique to remove alot of carbon from bowl

[SPUD 15]

A great way to remove carbon from heavily carbonized bowls without damaging the bowl, I use rifle and shotgun brass barrel cleaners attached to a variable speed drill. When it feels that you are at the limit of the brush reverse the drill and continue to remove carbon.. Hoppes makes brushes from .25" through .75" They work great and will not damage the wood. I would not use on meersham but you should not have any carbon build up on a meesham bowl. MIKE

 

[AJ]

Hadn't considered that. Might just work for me.. Thanks. 

AJ

 

[monbla256]

A great way to remove carbon from heavily carbonized bowls without damaging the bowl, I use rifle and shotgun brass barrel cleaners attached to a variable speed drill.  When it feels that you are at the limit of the brush reverse the drill and continue to remove carbon.. Hoppes makes brushes from .25" through .75"  They work great and will not damage the wood.  I would not use on meersham but you should not have any carbon build up on a meesham bowl.    MIKE

I presume you clamp the pipe in a vise of some type so you have BOTH hands to control the drill motor? I like the idea of the brass chamber brushes but if it were me, I'd put them in some sort of handle and turn 'em by hand pressuer 'cause you could really do some damage if you squeezed that drill trigger to much ! :twisted: :twisted: 

 

[Anonymous]

I think you have it backwards, Mon.  Jaw marks on the pipe or jaw marks on the drill? Squeezing down on fragile briar or a rugged case?  Lets go with drill in the vice.

 

[monbla256]

I think you have it backwards, Mon.  Jaw marks on the pipe or jaw marks on the drill?  Squeezing down on fragile briar or a rugged case?  Lets go with drill in the vice.

Either way (you can pad the jaws of course) , I hope he's NOT doing it ALL freehand !! :twisted: 

 

[Kyle Weiss]

Come to think of it, a .45 brush would do a nice job. I'd probably worry about the metal bristles being a tad aggressive, but perhaps the nylon brushes would be an even safer method? <img class="emojione" alt="?" title=":shrug:" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/emojione/assets/png/1f937.png?v=2.2.7"/>

Interesting, but I'll stick with pipe nails for light duty and my Kleen Reem for the cakey estate pipes. :lol:

Don't hurt yourself or your pipes, Mike. 8)

8)

 

[SPUD 15]

I have the drill in my left hand and the bowl in my right never had a problem the brass bore bristles are soft enough that they collapse when the drill motor starts slow at first as you don't want to go full bore with the drill right from the start. Kyle the brass bristles will not degrade the interior of the bowl if you take the cake down to the wood. MIKE

 

[Slartibartfast]

I'm a graduate of the "if it aint broke don't break it" school, so I'll stick with my old pipnet reamers I reckon, but best of luck to you.

 

[SPUD 15]

You guys are missing the boat or I am not explaining myself very well. I am not saying that I use this technique for maintenance of cake in the bowl but to remove cake from the bowl that has built up so much that it is beyond the smallest settings of your reamer as in estate pipes that you cannot get your pinky into the bowl. I have three reamers that I use, for tapered bowls I use a kaywoodie which is really great and a British Butner which will work in tapered and straight bowls. The smallest setting on both of these reamers is 5/8" . I also use the Senior pipe reamer on straight bowls. MIKE

 

[Kyle Weiss]

Isn't "missing the boat" kind of the motto of BoB sometimes? :lol: :cheers: This ship of lovable fools. :heart:

I still like the idea! I'm admittedly afraid to do it--but I like it!

8)

 

[somedumbjerk]

thats a great method. pipe makers use a brass wire wheel to take the bark off of plateaux without damaging the wood. not a gun person so i'll probably head to the gun shop to pick up some brushes and try it on a few estates that need it. thanks for sharing!