Pipe finish 'bubbling'

[brianr]

Pipe is an Adsorba 217, not an expensive pipe but one I enjoy smoking.

In a couple of spots, the finish is bubbling, almost as if paint stripper had been applied to it.

The pipe is ' rested' between smokes, at least 24 hours. It isn't over caked, just a light layer. No sign of burning in the chamber.

Any ideas as to the cause, please?

Any tips on refinishing the pipe, please?

Brian

 

[Ocelot55]

That sounds like a type of lacquer. As far as I know it only bubbles when exposed to heat. If it were me, I'd sand down the entire surface of the pipe and get all that nasty lacquer off. Then I'd either put a light coat of shellac and polish or buff it with carnauba wax.

 

[Brewdude]

That sounds like a type of lacquer. As far as I know it only bubbles when exposed to heat. If it were me, I'd sand down the entire surface of the pipe and get all that nasty lacquer off. Then I'd either put a light coat of shellac and polish or buff it with carnauba wax.

Lacquer finish is the first thing I though of as well. Some pipes do this, or so I've heard.

The advice from Ocelot sounds good to me. He's a pipemaker and knows his stuff.


Cheers,

RR

 

[monbla256]

That sounds like a type of lacquer. As far as I know it only bubbles when exposed to heat. If it were me, I'd sand down the entire surface of the pipe and get all that nasty lacquer off. Then I'd either put a light coat of shellac and polish or buff it with carnauba wax.

I'd have tp agree with Ocelot. If it were mine I'd sand off the OEM finish and just use some Carnuba wax and nose oil. It ought to get better looking as you smoke it this way as well as smoke better  

 

[brianr]

That sounds like a type of lacquer. As far as I know it only bubbles when exposed to heat. If it were me, I'd sand down the entire surface of the pipe and get all that nasty lacquer off. Then I'd either put a light coat of shellac and polish or buff it with carnauba wax.

Thank you for the advice, I think I will give the wax a try.

In time I hope to try my hand at pipe making ( for personal use, I don't aspire to your level), so this can be a starting exercise.

Brian.

 

[rothnh]

I agree with the advice here, except for the sealer. I'd avoid the shellac.

Strip the shellac off, sand as necessary, restain (only if necessary), then apply a light coat of wax, buff and done.

I'm not a fan of paint, shellac or varnish on pipes.

 

[ChiefBull]

a. #3M -180 grit, garnet paper; you can sand vigorously and it won't load up like oxide papers do and it cuts will not degrade the character of the burl. Rub it all down with #1 steel wool, for further cutting and cleaning action.
b. Minwax Cherry stain, it's a penetrating stain and will model the burl character of the wood, dawb with your finger tip.
c. Tone down a bit with Pelican 4001 'brilliant brown' ink[available in any office supply], it has an alcohol base to hold pigment in suspension, will evaporate almost as soon as you rub it in. Don't worry here; if you overdawb [use your finger to apply] you can bring back the character of the burl with Howard's Beeswax/Orange oil, available at the 'big orange box'.
d. dress up with Myland's antiquing wax [beeswax and pigment]
e. buff it up and let it sit for a day
f. and introduce it to your nose. 'Mr. Nose Grease'
Among my many sins, I am retired cabinetmaker and custom cabinetmaker and finisher.

regards
Anchor'sAweigh/SemperFi
ChiefBull
Nose grease it every so often; you'll do just fine

 

[pipe dreamer]

He knows his stuff, He knows all his stuff related to pipes.

 

[ChiefBull]

I do this, when I have to; I am very pleased with how much cooler the Pipe smokes. Never considered Shellaque, though it does bear some thinking here. Lacquer is the modern industrial synthesized equivalent of Shellaque; the diference between the two is remarkable though. Shellaque can be most easily repaired, Laquer cannot you have to strip the whole piece. Did a floor restoration for a family that had a budget to honor. I used Zinser #3lb cut. Orange [again available at the 'big orange box'] after a careful belt sanding of the floor [old t/g ash] and a wash with denatured alcohol and then shellaqued it. Bloody 'John Adams' could have walked in and felt right at home; shellaque was the preferred floor finish during the colonial period.
Not an expert here, just an old retired cabinetmaker. I love wood; it's not obedient like steel or aluminum; you almost have to pray to it at times, and as long as it is "not" rotten it is still a living thing.

regards
Anchor'sAweigh/SempeFi
ChieBull