Vulcanite Bits

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ChiefBull

ChiefBull

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Well, I tried Oxi-Clean; doesn't work
Vulcanite bits get a bit funky O/D green
Soooooooo, I tried my own fix.
Vulcanite oxidizes; therefore the surface burns [on a molecular scale] and deposits an ash on the surface; that "ash" is the haze that you see.
1-get 0 grade steel wool
2-carefully polish the surface removing the haze
3-daub with your finger some EVO [extra virgin olive oil] over the surface of the bit
or
"Tried and True Wood finish" from the Robson Family
14 Prospect Street
Trumansburg New York
'Tried and True' is 100% pure linseed oil with beeswax; it has absolutely "NO" petroleum distillates, "NO" petroleum derivatives, "NO" heavy metal driers
Don't ingest any it will give you the 'Subic Bay quick trots' [diahrrea]
Just db a bit on the finger and massage the bit. Vulcanite has a soft satin semi-lustre patina. That will restore it to a visually pleasing aesthetic and sweeten the bit.
I do this after every session and the bit is pleasing to the eye and pleasant to the bite.

regards
Anchor'weigh/SemperFi
ChiefBull
 
Over thinking this isn't necessarily a bad thing.

I appreciate how you went through the though process.

It works.

WTG.
 
for those taking the vegetable oil method, I would skip the extra virgin olive oil, the extra virgin means there are the highest percentage of olive solids in the oil, and rancidity is a result. Ideally, the clearest oils will work the best. "Vegetable oil" from the supermarket (normally 100% soybean oil) or Crisco (hydrogenated fat, though not as healthy to eat, is room-temp stable and doesn't go rancid) For the food network fans, these are the same reasons the tv chefs recommend cheaper oils for cooking and only the expensive stuff for the last minute drizzle on the plate.
 
To move this along -- Just use mineral oil.  It's food grade, it won't go rancid, and it's cheap.

I stopped using olive oil many years ago when it went rancid on me in Southeast Asia.

I switched to butcher block oil, but that's expensive.  Mineral oil is cheap and works very well.
 
Love it!
I have to approach things on a somewhat deep level to understand why things [molecular...etc.,] are the way they are which if I stop to think a bit points to a way out.
EVO? I grabbed it off the salad shelf; like the mountain "...it was there...": "she who must be obeyed" glared at me.
Then I switched to 'Tried and True', being a cabinetmaker, but ?Mineral Oil? now that's the bees knees. I'll put that first on the shelf now. I love the smell of Linseed oil, brings back good memories and is the cats meow when one is doing really good finishing where grain cathedral is desired.

regards
Anchor'sAweigh/SemperFi
ChiefBull
 
rothnh":g8yjc0ix said:
To move this along -- Just use mineral oil.  It's food grade, it won't go rancid, and it's cheap.

I stopped using olive oil many years ago when it went rancid on me in Southeast Asia.

I switched to butcher block oil, but that's expensive.  Mineral oil is cheap and works very well.
Click to expand...
I agree. Our food grade mineral oil used in the restaurants seems pretty close to the magical "Obsidian" oil that sells for $10/tiny bottle. (and seems to work equally well)
 
oxi clean does and will work if you let it soak in there long enough, also mr clean magic erasers work too but you also need to buff it when it is done cause it leaves the surface rough, I buff mine with caranuaba so I have never done this, but I have heard of guys using chapstick instead of oils, wont go rancid and the spf helps protect it from oxidation from light
 
Yeah...the funky green reason is why I never cared for vulcanite stems.
 
Well here's 'the deal'
I collect Hardcastle Pipes
They are incredibly good Pipes, though; my reason is for emotional reasons.
A Hardcastle 'Pot' is the very first Pipe ever smoked.
Okay?
Now all of that aside; there are any number of Hardcastles that are really good smoking Pipes. I have a couple of 'Walnuts' that are fabulous with Dark English. They just happen to have 'Vulcanite' bits.
Now, Pipes as with Firearms [there's a connection here be patient] the value of a 'platform' can be greatly reduced if you change, materially, any of the components of its original architecture.
You can buy a Pre-A Winchester Model 52 [22LR Target] Rifle that has its bluing gone, not rusty, just gone with a stock that is sound but dinged from normal wear. You can sand and "Linseed Oil finish" the stock and "not" degrade the value of the weapon; as a matter of fact you can overall enhance its "$" value. Any one knows that a Linseed Oil finish is the weakest of all finishes; it has no durability and can be easily scratched or abraded, and has low water protection, it is not impervious to water. If you varnish that stock its value is gone, even though "Varnish" is really the correct finish to maintain the weapon and enhance its extend and future usefulness.
What is the point to keeping a really good Hardcastle in my estimation if I do not maintain it in its original architecture just because it has 'Vulcanite' bit? I bring to my tobacconist and he gives it to a perfectly good Pipe craftsman who replaces the bit with a 'modern' bit; well, what have I got? Kinda' like saying "American Samurai Sword"; somehow the whole just doesn't resonate. Sooo, learn how to live with it, take care of it [not implying anything here] enjoy Myself, and lern a bit along the way.

regards
Anchor'sAweigh/SemperFi
ChiefBull
 
BigCasino":5qxp8aa8 said:
I have heard of guys using chapstick instead of oils, wont go rancid and the  spf helps protect it from oxidation from light
Click to expand...
Great suggestion re: chapstick! I plan to try this.
 
what flavor?
Strawberry?
Met the chaps from the Sherlock Holmes Pipe Club [Boston] yesterday @ Olde Fire-House Smokeshop.
Good bunch.
Pipes, Tobacco, Bourbon, the Red Sox, [we're in Red Sox Nation] and scalding hot Coffee
A wonderful and relaxing afternoon
Piped 'Derry Aire'[Danny Boy] Farewell to Camraw, and Mingulay

regards
ChiefBull
Anchor'sAweigh/SemperFi
 
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