what are my options for fixing?

[jonnylaw13]

good evening BoB brothers, i have this old Mastercraft that was my grandfathers and has become my favorite pipe, it smokes very well (could be due to the gigantic draft hole) anyway ive notice that its is separating and can be pulled apart. the shank doesnt appear to have any cracks. i really do like this pipe, does anybody have any knowledge that could help me fix this? thank you in advance! also my apologies if this is the wrong area.

 

[RDPipes]

Clean the inside of the shank and the threaded mortise well with ISO alcohol and make positive it's dry, then epoxy the mortise back in to the shank. Easy Peasy Japanesey  

Oh! But also make sure the threaded mortise is inserted with the proper alinement so that when you tighten the stem on it lines up properly without being cocked at an angle left or right. You could do this by first threading the stem on to the threaded mortise and then epoxy it, just be very careful not to get any epoxy on the stinger or threads of the tenon.

 

[BigCasino]

What Ron said, will work, put the epoxy on the insert so when you are putting it in the shank the excess epoxy gets squeezed out on the outside of the shank rather than pushing it into the air way of the shank, this should help keep it off the threading of the stinger , also if you can, remove the stem after getting it in the proper placement just in case some managed to make it to the stinger, but only if you can do so with out moving the insert

good luck

 

[jonnylaw13]

Thank you guys! I was thinking some sort of adhesive but I wasn't sure what was safe.

 

[Richard Burley]

Also, I believe that if you did get the alignment slightly wrong, you can make an adjustment by heating the stinger and twisting the bit to exact alignment, then allowing to cool. I say I believe this; I've never done it and I'm sure if wrong I'll be corrected by those more experienced than I am.

As a side note, I have a large Dr. Plumb billiard that I'm tempted to say is my absolute best smoker. It certainly is for OTC blends. The draft hole is HUGE, especially as I don't use any filter. I often wonder if that is the reason it smokes so great.

 

[jonnylaw13]

Also, I believe that if you did get the alignment slightly wrong, you can make an adjustment by heating the stinger and twisting the bit to exact alignment, then allowing to cool.  I say I believe this; I've never done it and I'm sure if wrong I'll be corrected by those more experienced than I am.

As a side note, I have a large Dr. Plumb billiard that I'm tempted to say is my absolute best smoker.  It certainly is for OTC blends.  The draft hole is HUGE, especially as I don't use any filter.  I often wonder if that is the reason it smokes so great.

on my regal dr grabow I just used a need nose pliers to turn the stinger to line it up right. I was thinking the same thing about athe massive draft whole on this one (you can stick a cotton swab through it without miss shaping the cotton) but then again the stinger I would imagine would make the oversized draft irrelevant..beats me!

 

[Anonymous]

I have a Genod that has a draught hole large enough to pass a Q Tip easily. No stinger but it does have the tightest pass at the button of any of my pipes. I am not fond of this arrangement because it allows particles to pass at one end and the Venturi effect accelerates them at the other. The result is crap hitting the back of my throat, and assumedly entering my lungs at high speed. Not the sort of pipe I enjoy digging around the dottle to extract the last 15 minutes of smokeability from.

As a result I am probably in a tiny minority in not liking this trend for larger draught holes. I think the reason they work for some pipe smokers is it compensates to some degree for overpacking. Apologies if that sounds judgmental, it is not intended to be.

Sorry also for the topic drift.

 

[jonnylaw13]

I have a Genod that has a  draught hole large enough to pass a Q Tip easily. No stinger but it does have the tightest pass at the button of any of my pipes. I am not fond of this arrangement because it allows particles to pass at one end and the Venturi effect accelerates them at the other. The result is crap hitting the back of my throat, and assumedly entering my lungs at high speed. Not the sort of pipe I enjoy digging around the dottle to extract the last 15 minutes of smokeability from.

As a result I am probably in a tiny minority in not liking this trend for larger draught holes. I think the reason they work for some pipe smokers is it compensates to some degree for overpacking. Apologies if that sounds judgmental, it is not intended to be.

Sorry also for the topic drift.

no problem brother, I myself suffer from topic-A.D.D.

 

[juanmedusa]

Don't forget to follow up on this thread post repair. I feel invested in fellow brothers projects. Good luck.

 

[jonnylaw13]

Will do!

I should have asked if there was a certain epoxy I should use or just any normal 2 part 3 ton epoxy.

 

[RDPipes]

Will do!

I should have asked if there was a certain epoxy I should use or just any normal 2 part 3 ton epoxy.

Any GOOD epoxy should do the trick, I wouldn't suggest buying anything other then brand names. Of course there's a lot more expensive ones to use but were not trying to put Venus De Milo's arm back on. Just as long as it's for wood and metal.
I've been using Loctite and haven't had any problems for jobs like this.
5 minute set will be okay but, for other projects that require a stronger hold 24 hour cure is best.

 

[jonnylaw13]

Will do!

I should have asked if there was a certain epoxy I should use or just any normal 2 part 3 ton epoxy.

Any GOOD epoxy should do the trick, I wouldn't suggest buying anything other then brand names. Of course there's a lot more expensive ones to use but were not trying to put Venus De Milo's arm back on. Just as long as it's for wood and metal.
I've been using Loctite and haven't had any problems for jobs like this.
5 minute set will be okay but, for other projects that require a stronger hold 24 hour cure is best.

I just found loctite epoxy puddy.. Could this work? Was thinking less mess, I'm a cluts like that.

 

[RDPipes]

Will do!

I should have asked if there was a certain epoxy I should use or just any normal 2 part 3 ton epoxy.

Any GOOD epoxy should do the trick, I wouldn't suggest buying anything other then brand names. Of course there's a lot more expensive ones to use but were not trying to put Venus De Milo's arm back on. Just as long as it's for wood and metal.
I've been using Loctite and haven't had any problems for jobs like this.
5 minute set will be okay but, for other projects that require a stronger hold 24 hour cure is best.

I just found loctite epoxy puddy.. Could this work? Was thinking less mess, I'm a cluts like that.

I personally don't like the putties, just too much work and waste for me.
You can get Loctite at any hardware stores, Lowe's, Home Cheapo (Depot), etc.
Even Walmart!  

 

[jonnylaw13]

well i think i managed to get this done right!

thank you all for the help!

Ps the super glue in the last photo was not involved, just happened to be in the shot from fixing something else.. and now its going to bother me that i cant remember what!